Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Jos

In the wake of the 2001 riots, the awaited Plateau State local government elections of this November 27th came with underlying skepticism of what would unfold in the following days. “No movement” was declared to prevent people from gathering and causing disturbances on Election Day, except for those attending to the polls on foot.

We ventured into Jos the next morning unaware of events that had transpired during the night. On arrival at the children’s school we were met with “No school today” signs posted on the gate and the principal stating that some youth were rioting and burning tires downtown.

We proceeded with our children to the Mennonite Central Committee house on a walled compound in Jos. We, along with the Hartman-Souder family, were shortly joined by Matthew, our Nigerian co-worker, who informed us of the escalating violence occurring in north Jos. It was best for us to stay put.

As the day unfolded we began to get reports by cell phone of the devastating destruction of homes, businesses and lives occurring mostly in the northern communities of Jos. From a hill on the compound we could watch the plumes of black smoke appear in succession starting in the west and moving throughout the day to the east. In the middle of the day we witnessed some fires just beyond the compound wall with families fleeing their community. Gunshots were heard throughout the day. We encouraged our children to stay inside the house.

During the day we had heard a colleague/pastor’s home had been burned down. A family arriving to the compound guesthouse had fled their home and informed us they had lost a friend, who was struck from behind. An MCC partner/colleague was trapped in her home and unable to leave to travel to Senegal for an HIV/AIDS conference there. A man on the compound was told the military barracks’ mortuary nearby had closed its doors because it was full. A classmate of Tanner arrived on the compound with his family (Christians), fearful of returning back to their home. A neighbouring Muslim family had hidden them in their home while rioters tried to find them. Many similar stories of hope have since come out, of neighbors and neighborhoods protecting neighbors of differing religions from rioters, refusing to participate in the violence against innocent people.

I was weak in the knees, reminded of the same uneasy feeling following the 9-11 attacks in the US. Although attempting to remain calm, especially for the children, we all felt the noticeable stress and tension. We knew we were safe but there was the unknown, unsure feeling wondering whether the situation was under control, if reinforcements had been brought in, or if the wounded were being attended to. Reliable news about what was happening was hard to come by. At times we were even unable to send or receive text messages by cell phone. Phone batteries and air credit were running low and needed to be recharged.

We hunkered down for the night and had a community meal with two other families on the compound. It felt good to gather together. Brenda H-S made a “comfort food” dessert with M&M’s (a rare treat here). We had oranges that the children had picked from the trees earlier in the day. After dark, the red glow of fires burning could be seen in the distance. The night was unrestful with dogs barking and gunshots heard in the distance. The early morning Muslim calls to prayer were regretfully absent.

We awoke to news of more concentrated riots in northern communities. The fires began again with smoke seen in the far east and moving back towards the west. Once again fires appeared in the neighbouring community over the compound wall with families fleeing to safety. Smoke started to billow into our compound causing greater anxiety for our safety. Other families were becoming more concerned, feeling a need to leave the compound. Some teenage boys living on the compound (boys our children knew and played soccer with when we lived on the compound for our first weeks in Nigeria) began sharpening machetes and fashioning spears, fearful that people may jump over the compound wall and threaten their families.

Thinking the roads were secure enough to travel on this end of town, we attempted to return to Vom that mid-morning. On our way to the gate, two men strongly urged us to obtain a military escort for the trip rather than trying on our own. At the same time we received a call from Matthew stating that another 24-hour curfew had been issued, effective immediately. I was saddened to not be able to return home, but yet relieved to not venture out onto the roads not sure of what lay ahead.

We returned back to Mark and Brenda’s house. The fires nearby had gotten smaller and the boys had laid down their machetes. During the day we ventured to the top of the hill and looked over the city towards the north. We were one with other groups of concerned people perched on surrounding hills, watchful, waiting for peace. Throughout the day people were slowly migrating back to their homes from the military barracks where they had sought safe haven. At times we would receive word that some MCC friends/partners were still in danger or could not sleep in their homes for fear of being burned out or attacked at night.

Before supper, Randy received a call from friends in Vom stating that our house had been broken into. We soon discovered that our laptop and cash were missing. We were disheartened. Although this invasion was minor in comparison to what other families were experiencing in Jos, our inner sense of trust and security was a bit shaken.

That evening Randy and I made tortillas and Brenda made beans and eggs, one of our favourite meals. After supper we received a text message that the US and British High commands would provide an escort for anyone wanting to voluntarily leave to Abuja (the capital). At the same time, word came of possible planned attacks on churches Sunday morning. The night once again was restless with absence of the morning calls to prayer.

On Sunday, after curfew was lifted, we ventured home to Vom with Matthew and Mark H-S graciously accompanying us to assess the damage to our home. We picked up a welder and our contractor and repairs/reinforcements were made. Our family was able to feel less shaken and further removed from the insecurities of Jos.

Tensions remain high in Jos, although the violence has been suppressed with the heavy military presence in the city. The children’s school resumed today after a week and a half suspension.

It has been said that the struggles in Jos exist between the Muslims and Christians, although the conflict is much more complicated than that and involves politics and power. It has been said that hundreds of lives have been lost and thousands displaced. But what I have seen on the faces of two young men recovering in the Vom hospital from bullet wounds is quiet fear and horror of what they had experienced and seen.

The atrocities and pain felt by many will need to be our common ground so that we may rebuild our hope and restore peace and safety for all. May our faith in God and humanity sustain us as we reconcile the suffering felt by many.

Charlotte